Sampsa Jyrkynen

Sampsa

Sampsa is the strong guy praising for fast & light approach. He’s known for his knowledge in climbing gear and he has nerves of steel if the situation gets grim. He holds M.Sci in Industrial Management. He’s currently working in climbing equipment and property maintenance businesses.

He has two lovely daughters. Milena was born in May 2008 and Viola in November 2009.

Here’s a list of routes Sampsa has done in the past. Feel free to ask for beta if you have any questions. Email sampsa@pata…

2015
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
Hohe WandZukunftsweiser7+, 180mViennasteep
Pared AragonVia Santiagov+/A0, 400mMontrebeiyay!
Auberge MontfalcoCresta Urquiza-Olmo6a, 600mMontrebeilots of easy terrain
Torre GermanaSpigolo Boccalatte5+, 250mBardonecciarainy day, morning fun!
Mont AiguillePilier Sud6a, 250mVercorssteep!
Dalles GrisesAfin Que Nul Ne Meure6a+, 150mVerdonVerdon is love!
2014
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
HemsedalHaugfossenWI4, 70mNorwayshort trip, short route
Horta de Sant JoanMas Colomer6a/A0, 220mPorts de Beceiteexcellent
Penon de IfachValencianosV+, 270mCosta Blancalots of bird poo
PonochValencianos6a/A0, 400mCosta Blancasuperb
Puig CampanaEspolon Central / Edwards5, 680mCosta Blancato the summit
Torre di AimoninPesce D'Aprile5c, 170mValle del Orcolocal classic
SergeantNautilus6a, 270mValle del Orconice adventrure
BisotunGharargah normal6a, 1200mIrantwo days, slept at the hut
2013
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
SetesdalRide the PunaniWI3+, 200mNorwayexcellent for the grade
HjartdalUnknownWI4, 200mNorwaygood location
UshbaNortheast RidgeAD+Georgiatwo tries, no success, will be back
Parete BagassesCADEV+/A0, 500mTerradetsvery nice
Roca del ArcsLleida6b+ (V/A0), 225m)Vilanova de Meiatres aerienne...
Cavall BernatPunsola-ReniuV+/A0, 240m Montserratbit scary but very rewarding
2012
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
OttaJukulkulaWI4, 270mNorwaynice ice route with no approach
GondoCaramberosWI5, 250mSwitzerlanda great adventure!
MartinswandBotanik Grand Prix6+/A0, 600mInnsbrucknice route and long
MartinswandBeam Me Up Scotty7, 150mInnsbruckharder and a little polished
MartinswandMaxls Gamsrevier to Krone7-, 335mInnsbruckrecommended!
MartinswandKaiser Max Spätlese6+, 200mInnsbruckeasy but good
MarmoladaDon Quixote6, 800mDolomitessandbag for the grade
Cima PiccolissimaVia Cassin7-, 350mDolomitessteep!
MadreaEgo Trip6b+, 300mArcogood sport climbing
La MeijeWest ridge + traverseD-, 2 daysEcrinsa dream come true!
Grandes JorassesRochfort + traverseD+, 2 daysChamonixfinally did it!
Piz BadileCassin route6a, 800mBergellvery nice route!
Abu Maileh TowerSalim5+, 100mWadi Rumshort route in the shade
Jebel um EjilThe Beauty6a, 200mWadi Rumsplitter cracks
Jebel RumHammad's Route5, AD+Wadi RumBeduin, the very best adventure!
Barrah CanyonMerlin's Wand6a+, 150mWadi Ruma great line
2011
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
GuillaumetBrenner Ridge6b, 500mPatagoniabeautiful ridge
Media LunaRuby y Azul6c, 500mPatagoniasplitters!
PreslesOxus7a+, 230mPreslesErik did it free but I didn't
Torre GrandeVia Finlandia7-, 140mDolomitesa route with history for Finns!
Cima PiccolaSpigolo Giallo6+, 380mDolomitessunny and nice!
Mallo PisonMurciana6c, 300mRiglossteep and well protected
2010
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
DevensonPour la memoire de nos enfants6c, 330mCalanquesexposed!
Grande ChandelleArmata Calanca6c, 320mCalanquesa perfect winter route
Cap CanailleBourreur de rousse6a+, 130mCalanquessteep and big holds
2009
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
SalbitschijenWest Ridge6a/A0, 1000mSalbita long day with 30 pitches
MetamorfosiKundalini5c+, 400mVal di Melloa very good warmup
MetamorfosiLuna Nascente6b, 330mVal di Mellolinkup with Kundalini
Bric PianarellaINPS6b, 200mFinalea bit vegetated but ok
Rocca dell UlivoHotel Varatella6c+, 210mFinalevery steep!
2008
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
Bl?mannenUltima ThuleV A1/A2, 250mKvaloya1st winter ascent
Tour VerteLe pont des soupirsTD+, 250mChamonixnice route close to the hut
2007
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
El Capitan The NoseVI 5.9 C2YosemiteNIAD (20h)
Leaning TowerWest FaceV 5.7 C2FYosemiteSteep!
Higher CathedralNorth East ButtressIV 5.9YosemiteWide cracks, very nice!
Half DomeRegular North WestVI 5.9 C1YosemiteGreat climb!
El CapitanEast ButtressIV 5.10bYosemiteStellar route!
Washington ColumnSouth FaceV 5.9 C2YosemiteSouthern Man variation
Royal ArchesSerenity Crack5.10dYosemiteNice route but crowded
Middle CathedralEast ButtressIV 5.10aYosemiteThe right variation
Middle CathedralKor-Beck5.9YosemiteHard but good
Manupile ButtressNutcracker5.8YosemiteGood route!
Aiguilles de Chamonix TraverseTD, 2 daysChamonixspectacular route! 2 days
Mont Blanc du TaculAiguilles du DiableD+, 1 dayChamonix10h, all 5 summits
Aiguille du MidiFrendo spurD+, 1200mChamonixwarm up for aig. traverse
Chapelle de la GliereSouth RidgeAD+, 400mChamonix2h, nice route
Fitz RoyFranco ArgentineED-, 650mPatagoniano summit, pitch 10/13
GuillaumetCouloir AmyTD-, 450mPatagoniahigh winds, nice route
2006
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
MatterhornSchmidt routeTD/ED, 1000mZermattwinter, 3 bivies
Aiguille du MidiMidi-Plan traverseADChamonixafter storm, opening trail
Dome du RochefortRochefort traverseADChamonixafter storm, very beautiful
TotenkirchlStripsenzahnUIAA 6-, 310mWilder Kaiserpleasure climb
TotenkirchlSchneiderwegUIAA 5+, 150mWilder Kaiserdescend in thunderstorm
BergseeschijenSudostpfeilerUIAA 5, 300mSalbiton a rainy day
MascaratVuelo del aguila6a+, 250mCosta Blancamostly nuts & cams
Penon de IfachCosta Blanca / Diedro UBSA6b+, 220mCosta Blancahard bits well bolted
Puig CampanaEspolon Central / Edwards5, 680mCosta Blancalong descent if in the dark
PonochViaje Espacial6a+, 220mCosta Blancaspaced bolts
Pirates CaveParle6a+, 60mCosta Blancaexposed locacion, phew! 🙂
2005
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
Mont Blanc du TaculGervasutti pillarTD, 800mChamonix10h, winds of 70km/h
Aiguille du MidiFrendo spurD+, 1200mChamonix7h, simulclimbing
Grand CapucinSwiss routeTD+, 350mChamonix6h, vertical pleasure
Pointe NantilonsDiedre TroussierTD+, 350mChamonix5h, magnificent corners!
Tour VerteLa PiegeTD+, 200mChamonix3h, easy for the grade
Pointe LachenalVoie ContamineTD+, 250mChamonix6h, super cracks!
PeigneLe TicketTD+, 200mChamonix6h, fairly runout
Aiguille du MidiVoie RebuffatTD+, 250mChamonix3h, nice route
Tour RondeNE Ridge directTD-, 350mChamonix7h, in big boots
BlaitiereDiedre TroussierED-, 350mChamonix6h, splendid offwidths!
PeigneVoie Pascal-MayerTD-, 200mChamonix5h, exposed & hard
PeigneArete PapillonD, 300m5h, lots of traffic
PeigneNorth spurD, 300mChamonix3h, easy access
Aiguille du MidiArete CosmiquesAD Chamonixafter storm, very beautiful
Pain de SucreVoie Rieffel/FournierTDAiguilles Rougeswith Dieter DAV
Rjukan TrappfossWI4, 200mRjukan gorgewith Juha & Henkka
Rjukan SykehusfossenWI4, 150mRjukan gorgewith Ari
2004
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
Teglie LiscePorte des CieuxTD, 350mCorsica6b+ offwidth crux
Punta RossolinoOmbre et LumiereTD, 200mCorsicaeasy for the grade
VerdonTicket Danger6a+, 160mVerdon gorgewith Matti
Eperon des CosmiquesVoie RebuffatD+, 120mChamonixwith Hessu
2003
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
7. KirchlispitzeSabraUIAA 8, 370mR?tikonwith Tomi
ScweizereckKasamaUIAA 8-, 150mR?tikonwith Tomi
SanetchDouce violence6c, 200mSionwith Tomi
2002
PeakRouteDifficultyLocationNotes
SudostpornJägersteigUIAA 7+, 260mGrazwith Alex
Rote WandFlugsanpfeilerUIAA 6+, 260mGrazwith Alex
Rote WandRöhrsalatUIAA 5+, 330mGrazwith Chris

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