Riglos – October 2011

Riglos – what a place! The food is good, the climbing is even better and the three course dinner called “menu del dia” – phew! This place I will definitely visit someday again! On the last night after having a few pints of beer and a bottle of wine Jari said Riglos must be the most perfect autumn spot. Good steep rock and demanding routes. Very much like climbing in the Dolomites but lower down and with better temperatures. And the approach is 15 mins or less.

Mallo Pison: Murciana (6c, 300m), October 28th, 2011

On the day we arrived we climbed the Alberto Rabada on Mallo Pison. The route had some very straight forward climbing with a very evident line. The line could be seen half a kilometer from the face since it was all white. The wall is so overhanging it never rains on this route…

In the Spanish topo we thought it said the route was fully bolted but in my opinion some additional pro like a set of nuts could have been useful. For example the first pitch had 6 bolts for 50 meters or so. After the first pitch it was more relaxed, though.

Mallo Fire: Rabada-Navarra (6b, 300m), October 30th, 2011

For our second route we chose something more adventurous and got on the Rabada-Navarro on Mallo Fire. Technically the route should have been easier but there was one thing that made it a little more demanding. This one didn’t have shiny bolts like the most frequented routes have.

Most hard pitches had an 8mm spit protecting the crux move but the easier sections had only odd kevlar threads with different colors. Combined with the suspect rock and difficult route finding the route was much more interesting than the previous one. The route finding was always a challenge since there weren’t any chalk marks. Most often you just had to run it out at some direction and eventually an old rusty pin or an old thread would pop out somewhere. Sometimes it was one pitch left and sometimes one pitch right but in the end you could always find some pro. All in all it’s a stellar route if you like this type of climbing and thus highly recommended!

With many detours we eventually ran out of time and had to abseil down. We figured it was better abseiling down with daylight than pushing it to the top in the dark. The route gave us very much the adventure we were looking for, though.

Below are few pics with topos found on the wall of bar El Puro. If you find them useful please support the bar buying menu del dia perhaps. The prices are very reasonable and I can guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

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