Portrait of Sampsa Jyrkynen
The old machine
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Sampsa is the strong guy praising for fast & light approach. He's
known for his knowledge in climbing gear and he has nerves of steel
if the situation gets grim. This was proven in February 2006 on the
Matterhorn when the wind gusts reached 60km/h and temperature
dropped below -20C. Wind chill numbers weren't too high!
Sampsa's backpack size for typical one month trip to the Alps is
around 30 litres, including climbing gear and winter clothing.
He holds M.Sci in Industrial Management. He's working
in climbing equipment and property maintenance businesses.
| 2009 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| Salbitschijen | West Ridge | 6a/A0, 1000m | Salbit | a long day with 30 pitches |
| Metamorfosi | Kundalini | 5c+, 400m | Val di Mello | a very good warmup |
| Metamorfosi | Luna Nascente | 6b, 330m | Val di Mello | linkup with Kundalini |
| Bric Pianarella | INPS | 6b, 200m | Finale | a bit vegetated but ok |
| Rocca dell Ulivo | Hotel Varatella | 6c+, 210m | Finale | very steep! |
| 2008 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| Blåmannen | Ultima Thule | V A1/A2, 250m | Kvaloya | 1st winter ascent |
| Tour Verte | Le pont des soupirs | TD+, 250m | Chamonix | nice route close to the hut |
| 2007 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| El Capitan | The Nose | VI 5.9 C2 | Yosemite | NIAD (20h) |
| Leaning Tower | West Face | V 5.7 C2F | Yosemite | Steep! |
| Higher Cathedral | North East Buttress | IV 5.9 | Yosemite | Wide cracks, very nice! |
| Half Dome | Regular North West | VI 5.9 C1 | Yosemite | Great climb! |
| El Capitan | East Buttress | IV 5.10b | Yosemite | Stellar route! |
| Washington Column | South Face | V 5.9 C2 | Yosemite | Southern Man variation |
| Royal Arches | Serenity Crack | 5.10d | Yosemite | Nice route but crowded |
| Middle Cathedral | East Buttress | IV 5.10a | Yosemite | The right variation |
| Middle Cathedral | Kor-Beck | 5.9 | Yosemite | Hard but good |
| Manupile Buttress | Nutcracker | 5.8 | Yosemite | Good route! |
| Aiguilles de Chamonix | Traverse | TD, 4km ridge | Chamonix | spectacular route! 2 days |
| Mont Blanc du Tacul | Aiguilles du Diable | D+, traverse | Chamonix | 10h, all 5 summits |
| Aiguille du Midi | Frendo spur | D+, 1200m | Chamonix | warm up for aig. traverse |
| Chapelle de la Gliere | South Ridge | AD+, 400m | Chamonix | 2h, nice route |
| Fitz Roy | Franco Argentine | ED-, 650m | Patagonia | no summit, pitch 10/13 |
| Guillaumet | Couloir Amy | TD-, 450m | Patagonia | high winds, nice route |
| 2006 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| Matterhorn | Schmidt route | TD/ED, 1000m | Zermatt | winter, 3 bivies |
| Aiguille du Midi | Midi-Plan traverse | AD | Chamonix | after storm, opening trail |
| Dome du Rochefort | Rochefort traverse | AD | Chamonix | after storm, very beautiful |
| Totenkirchl | Stripsenzahn | UIAA 6-, 310m | Wilder Kaiser | pleasure climb |
| Totenkirchl | Schneiderweg | UIAA 5+, 150m | Wilder Kaiser | descend in thunderstorm |
| Bergseeschijen | Sudostpfeiler | UIAA 5, 300m | Salbit | on a rainy day |
| Mascarat | Vuelo del aguila | 6a+, 250m | Costa Blanca | mostly nuts & cams |
| Penon de Ifach | Costa Blanca / Diedro UBSA | 6b+, 220m | Costa Blanca | hard bits well bolted |
| Puig Campana | Espolon Central / Edwards | 5, 680m | Costa Blanca | long descent if in the dark |
| Ponoch | Viaje Espacial | 6a+, 220m | Costa Blanca | spaced bolts |
| Pirates Cave | Parle | 6a+, 60m | Costa Blanca | exposed locacion, phew! :) |
| 2005 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| Mont Blanc du Tacul | Gervasutti pillar | TD, 800m | Chamonix | 10h, winds of 70km/h |
| Aiguille du Midi | Frendo spur | D+, 1200m | Chamonix | 7h, simulclimbing |
| Grand Capucin | Swiss route | TD+, 350m | Chamonix | 6h, vertical pleasure |
| Pointe Nantilons | Diedre Troussier | TD+, 350m | Chamonix | 5h, magnificent corners! |
| Tour Verte | La Piege | TD+, 200m | Chamonix | 3h, easy for the grade |
| Pointe Lachenal | Voie Contamine | TD+, 250m | Chamonix | 6h, super cracks! |
| Peigne | Le Ticket | TD+, 200m | Chamonix | 6h, fairly runout |
| Aiguille du Midi | Voie Rebuffat | TD+, 250m | Chamonix | 3h, nice route |
| Tour Ronde | NE Ridge direct | TD-, 350m | Chamonix | 7h, in big boots |
| Blaitiere | Diedre Troussier | ED-, 350m | Chamonix | 6h, splendid offwidths! |
| Peigne | Voie Pascal-Mayer | TD-, 200m | Chamonix | 5h, exposed & hard |
| Peigne | Papillon's ridge | D, 300m | Chamonix | 5h, lots of traffic |
| Peigne | North spur | D, 300m | Chamonix | 3h, easy access |
| Aiguille du Midi | Arete Cosmiques | AD | Chamonix | after storm, very beautiful |
| Pain de Sucre | Voie Rieffel/Fournier | TD | Aiguilles Rouges | with Dieter DAV |
| Rjukan | Trappfoss | WI4, 200m | Rjukan gorge | with Juha & Henkka |
| Rjukan | Sykehusfossen | WI4, 150m | Rjukan gorge | with Ari |
| 2004 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| Teglie Lisce | Porte des Cieux | TD, 350m | Corsica | 6b+ offwidth crux |
| Punta Rossolino | Ombre et Lumiere | TD, 200m | Corsica | easy for the grade |
| Verdon | Ticket Danger | 6a+, 160m | Verdon gorge | with Matti |
| Eperon des Cosmiques | Voie Rebuffat | D+, 120m | Chamonix | with Hessu |
| 2003 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| 7. Kirchlispitze | Sabra | UIAA 8, 370m | Rätikon | with Tomi |
| Scweizereck | Kasama | UIAA 8-, 150m | Rätikon | with Tomi |
| Sanetch | Douce violence | 6c, 200m | Sion | with Tomi |
| 2002 | ||||
| Peak | Route | Difficulty | Location | Notes |
| Sudostporn | Jägersteig | UIAA 7+, 260m | Graz | with Alex |
| Rote Wand | Flugsanpfeiler | UIAA 6+, 260m | Graz | with Alex |
| Rote Wand | Röhrsalat | UIAA 5+, 330m | Graz | with Chris |