PATAGONIA 2007

News
About
Mission
Partners
Contact

Ambassadors
Lauri
Sampsa

Photos & climbs:

2009

Switzerland
Salbit Westgrat
Wenden

Italy
Finale
Val di Mello

2008 and prior

Chamonix
Arete Rochefort
Aiguilles Chamonix
Aiguilles Diable
Droites NE Spur
Envers hut
Frendo Spur
Gervasutti pillar
Grand Capucin
Subtilites Dulfer

Corsica
Teghie Lisce

Finland
Olhava

Norway
Blåmannen
Blåmannen winter
Baugen

Patagonia
Life in El Chalten
Fitzroy
Guillaumet

Spain
Costa Blanca

Verdon
Ticket Danger

Zermatt
Matterhorn

Xinjiang China
Manse 6355
Ye Zi 6046
God Tang 6013

Yosemite
First three days
Washington Column
Higher Cathedral
El Capitan EB
Half Dome
Leaning Tower
The Nose

 

PARTNERS:


http://blogit.hs.fi/patagonia
 


Webdesign by Techvision

NEWS FROM THE FIELD:

 

Oct 8th, 2007
This Sunday we climbed the praised Serenity Crack (5.10d) on Royal Arches, which was very weird climbing (pinscars) but at the same time it was a very good route indeed. Yesterday we did the Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock and today we are having a rest day since the committing wide cracks and chimneys ate all our power. Check the pictures from Cathedral rock!

Oct 6th, 2007
We did the South Face of Washington Column yesterday. It was a stellar route and it took us nine and half hours! We've added some pictures online.
Today there is bad weather in the Valley so we are having a well deserved rest day.

Oct 4th, 2007
Some pictures from Yosemite are online now! We've had very good three days here with three routes done. The pictures are in random order since we need to sleep. Tomorrow we have a serious route to be done!

Sept 13th, 2007
Lauri published an article about Kunlun on Alpinist Magazine.
Check it here!

August 26th, 2007
Lauri said they have climbed new route to the summit of Peak 6046 with Henri!
The route is called “Man who dances like a tibetan” (TD, 850m). The first 650 meters of the route lie on the west face and the upper 200 meters lies on the south face. Good job boys!
The expedition will be back in Helsinki on Sunday September 2nd. They have loads of pictures and five hours of video footage!

August 20th, 2007
The Kunlun expedion is ready for more action now. They have packed supplies for five days and they are aiming at climbing one 1000m couloir and one 1000m face. Both routes are unclimbed before. Lauri is very psyched about sending these routes!

August 19th, 2007
We just recieved message from Lauri. He said the last week has been bad weather in the Kunlun region. However, they managed climbing one 1100 meter ridge. They got as far as the fore-summit but missed the main summit.
There are still 8 days left of the expedion so expect more news in the near future!

August 15th, 2007
The Kunlun 2007 expedition has made the first ascent of Peak 6013! They have two more weeks time so expect new action in near future. According to Lauri there are plenty or hard routes waiting for first ascents. For more information
surf to:
http://www.kunlun2007.fi.

August 14th, 2007

Lauri and Henri have made the first ascent of Peak 6355 in China today!

August 7th, 2007
Sampsa had a very good trip to the Alps with Teppo! The pair climbed the Frendo Spur for warm up on July 25th to 26th and then continued with the Chamonix Aiguilles Traverse on July 27th to 28th. The trip was crowned with an ascent of the Diable Spur on Mont Blanc du Tacul few days later. Pictures coming soon!

July 7th, 2007
Uploaded pictures from Kvaloya!

July 6th, 2007
As you probably know already, Lauri skipped all
midsummer festivals since he went climbing to Norway
with Juha Suviola for a long week.
They managed a six pitch aid route called Ultima Thule
and in addition they climbed two top class free routes on
Baugen. Pictures coming soon!

July 5th, 2007

Our special climbing shoes for Patagonia arrived!
This beauty has a build in gaiter and Sympatex lining
for extra warmth and superb wind protection!

July 4h, 2007
Ticklists updated for Lauri and Sampsa!

April 26th, 2007
Our calendar for this year is quite full
already. In July Lauri will assault big mountains
in China with Henri. In July Sampsa is doing smaller
mountains in the Alps. In September the team is back
together and we'll be heading to Yosemite National Park
in California for some steep big walls. The training in
Yosemite will aim at being very fast in Patagonia!
We will be back there next season!

April 25th, 2007
All Patagonia pictures are online!

March 28th, 2007
Added the first batch of pictures from
Patagonia. There are plenty of more pictures to
come later. We'll have, for example, a more complete
set of Franco Argentine route on Fitzroy and images
of Couloir du Amy on Guillamet!

February 1st, 2007
We've been very, very busy again but we've got good
news. Go and have a look at
http://blogit.hs.fi/patagonia.
We will try to have one more update before we leave on Sunday.

January 22th, 2007
We've been very, very busy lately. There has been
quite a lot of work to be done, plenty of parties we
couldn't have missed... and we've even been negotiating
new deals during the early morning hours. But it hasn't
been all for nothing. There are some results, too. =)
We can't publish all details just yet but... we found
common interests with this interesting partner.
www.hs.fi

January 16th, 2007

While Lauri was spooning against cold with his smelly
friends, Sampsa was sending superb routes with this
gorgeous climber, Marjut, high above the hottest coasts
of Spain. The Costa Blanca pictures are online, now!

January 13th, 2007
Check out Lauri's interview in VOLT. There's more
in the print version. But first:
click here

January 10th, 2007
The trip is approaching! We got our vaccins today.
The HUGE 5cm needle of the Hepatitis shot was way more
scary than a 10m runout can ever be! Lauri's butt was so
sore that he needed to skip the morning workout... =)

January 8th, 2007
We've updated the site with some pictures from Olhava.
All pictures except the last self portrait were shot by
Lauri. Our friend, Matti Kivinen took the portrait picture.

January 3rd, 2007

Lauri was interviewed for an article in Hufvudstadsbladet
today. The article will be out in the weekly VOLT on
Saturday 13th of January.

January 1st, 2007
We've been busy with climbing during Christmas
holidays. Lauri was at Olhava training hard nailing
and bigwall technigues with some pals. They did,
for example, the A3 line to the left of Los Capitanos.
Meanwhile Sampsa was enjoying the Costa Blanca
sun in southern Spain. His ticklist is updated,
some pictures will follow later

December 15th, 2006
I guess we really have to go now...
our project is public! =)
We have been noted on the front pages of
www.image.fi and www.slouppi.net.

December 10th, 2006
We have new desing for this website now. A very big
thank you for Miikka at Techvision!

December 6th, 2006
We booked and paid our flights today!
Our flight on February 4th has two stops: one in Paris
and a second one in Buenos Aires. There we will change
airport and take a domestic flight to El Calafate. It
will be some 32 hours of traveling.
The flight back on March 4th will be longer adventure,
since we will stop in Ushuai, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo
and Paris before reaching home sweet home in Helsinki.

December 4th, 2006

Our article about the Matterhorn adventure is in the
shops now. You can find it in Retki-lehti December
2006 issue, pages 78-83!

November 15th, 2006
Added pictures from Les Droites

November 12th, 2006
Lauri had slide-show about his previous climbs
yesterday in Tampere. Everything went very fluently.
It seems he is a natural born speaker and meets his
audience very well. His pictures were praised, too. :)

November 9th, 2006
We just got to see the final version of the
Retki-lehti article and we must say it looks fabulous.
Now we're in for some celebration, perhaps it's time for
some whisky, cigars and champagne, too! =)

November 2th, 2006
We've discussed having an article in Helsingin
Sanomat after the Patagonian trip. It will be in the travel
pages and most likely full page article. The pictures
should be good.

October 30th, 2006
Article from our Matterhorn adventure this spring
will be published in Retki-lehti December 2006 issue.
We're finishing the text now but it seems it'll be
roughly six pages long.

September 21st, 2006
We just got confirmation from Explorersweb. They will be our
international partner news dispatches from Patagonia.

September 5th, 2006
Lauri's list of climbs updated

September 3rd, 2006

Lauri climbed a very big route, Tournier Spur Direct on Droites!
He did the route with a Dutchman called Tracy and it took them
only 33 hours from Chamonix village to Chamonix village.
They started the route on Sunday at 5pm, climbed through the night
and topped out on Monday at 3pm. They reached Chamonix at 1am.

August 30th, 2006
Added pictures from Arete Rochefort

August 22nd, 2006
Sampsa's list of climbs updated

August 11th, 2006
Lauri soloed the Frendo Spur in 6 hours! He started climbing
at 1am and topped out at 7am, just in time for the first
telepherique cabin down. As you can imagine there was nobody
else on the route during those silent night hours.

 

El Capitan: The Nose
(October 18th, 2007)
Leaning Tower: West Face
(October 15th, 2007)
Half Dome: Regular NW Face
(October 11th, 2007)
El Capitan: East Buttress
(October 9th, 2007)
Higher Cathedral Rock: NE Buttress
(October 7th, 2007)
Washington Column: South Face
(October 4th, 2007)
Yosemite pictures
(October 1st, 2007)
Mont Blanc du Tacul: Aiguilles du Diable
(July 31st, 2007)