{"id":986,"date":"2012-12-15T14:16:14","date_gmt":"2012-12-15T12:16:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/?page_id=986"},"modified":"2012-12-15T14:38:58","modified_gmt":"2012-12-15T12:38:58","slug":"wadi-rum-part-2-the-beauty-and-lautre-dimension","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/pictures\/wadi-rum-part-2-the-beauty-and-lautre-dimension\/","title":{"rendered":"Wadi Rum part 2: The Beauty and L’autre Dimension"},"content":{"rendered":"
During the past few years I’ve been using the ascending rhythm system for choosing the climbs during a trip. The system is not very structured and it has many not\u00a0measurable variables like the mood and the feeling but the basic concept is climbing the easy routes first and then progressing towards the hard ones. The main idea is to get into the\u00a0rhythm\u00a0of the local rock type with an ascending row of success.<\/p>\n
On the Wadi Rum trip our first route was the 5+ on Abu Maileh Tower and the second one The Beauty 6a on the Jebel um Ejil. The first route was 100 meters high and the second one 200 meters. This was ascending\u00a0rhythm as it’s supposed to be.<\/p>\n
Jebel um Ejil: The Beauty (6a, 200m) – October 15th, 2012<\/span><\/p>\n According to all the books I read the Beauty was highly recommended and it’s western face with a shady corner was spot on with the current conditions. Climbing in the sun was no fun and climbing in the shade was what we were looking for. According to the books the climbing was supposed to be as good as on any of the best routes in Utah.<\/p>\n What I really loved, too, was the approach hike through the canyons with the route finding challenge. Most of the hiking was easy but there was the odd scrambling move every now and then to spice it up. The canyons are something most mountains have but I’ve never seen them to this extent before.<\/p>\n Jebel Kharazeh: The Cat Fish Corner (6c, 100m) – October 16th, 2012<\/span><\/p>\n On the morning of the third day I was not thinking about climbing anything hard and I wanted to do some beduin routes which went all the way to the summit. Most of our gang wanted proper climbing, though.<\/p>\n As you can see in the pictures there wasn’t much proper climbing that day, though. We woke up way too late and we got a bit lost on the approach. Once we reached the bottom of the route proper it was getting into the sun already and nobody wanted to climb it. Teppo and I decided to take a little nap in the shade and Matti went for a canyoning adventure into the ravines.<\/p>\n Later in the day we asked our host Mohammed if he wanted to take us out on the desert with his jeep. He kindly replied ‘yes’ and he dropped us on the desert.<\/p>\n In the evening of our third day Jonni and Lauri were not back before it was pitch black. They were having a minor epic on the Hiker’s Road on Jebel Nassrani (5c, 500m). It was nothing serious but they turned back too late and we saw their one head lamp about 100m up the face as the dark caught them.\u00a0The light was moving, though, so we asked Mohammed if he would like to pick them up later in the evening. He replied positive which was highly\u00a0appreciated by the two warriors once they were back down on the surface.<\/p>\n The next day the two epic warriors and Teppo, who is a fish by his second nature, decided to go for a swim into the Red Sea. They say there are fairly nice spots for snorkeling near Aqaba which is less than an hours drive from Wadi Rum.\u00a0Matti and I, who are not that much of swimmers, decided to go climbing.<\/p>\n Jebel Nassrani: L’autre Dimension (6b, 500m)\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n We browsed through the guide book during the late evening hours and found a route which was supposed to be in the shade until the afternoon. Although the sleep was getting short we decided on alpine start before the sun rises. We wanted to get the most out of the mild and shady part of the day.<\/p>\n
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\nThe Beauty certainly was beautiful climbing but in my opinion it was not as spectacular as advertised. The route was certainly not bad but I didn’t really enjoy the actual climbing too much. But what I loved was what came on top of the the proper pitches. Running up and down the dome hills was like being in the candy shop as I was five years old. Hanging out on the summit was a superb experience with the endless desert in the horizon.<\/p>\n
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\nThe Cat Fish Corner was supposed to be three superb pitches of splitter finger crack at 6a+\/6c\/6b. It was a very good plan B although it was not what I really wanted. But I didn’t mind belaying it since top roping is always nice.<\/p>\n
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\nOf course I forgot to pack any water with me. It was a fairly surreal experience being way out on the desert with no water. It was getting into the evening, though, so the sun was not that bad. But I felt pretty hard core. I felt like Clint Eastwood who was left out on the desert in his movie the Eiger Sanction.<\/p>\n
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