{"id":1308,"date":"2014-02-01T18:41:18","date_gmt":"2014-02-01T16:41:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/?p=1308"},"modified":"2014-02-01T18:45:48","modified_gmt":"2014-02-01T16:45:48","slug":"1308","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/2014\/02\/1308\/","title":{"rendered":"Caucasus Climbing: Ushba part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

During the first try we learned we weren\u2019t fit enough for a fast ascent. Instead, we decided to have the slow approach. In practical terms this was a four day approach plan with a fast summit day. The key was to be as fit as possible for the summit day.<\/p>\n

We reasoned a slow approach would consider both: a good acclimatization and plenty of rest. The good acclimatization would be four overnight camps with a steady altitude rise. Starting from 1700m the next stops would be at 2300m, 3100m, 3900m and 4200m. With this kind of scheme the daily work would be short and the rest plenty. Most of the hiking would be done before the afternoon sun, too, which would be a big bonus. During the afternoon the glacier snow tends to turn soft and hiking takes much more effort. <\/p>\n

Ushba 2nd try \u2013 July 20th to 23rd, 2013<\/span><\/p>\n

As the plan was heavy anyways we figured we would take a permit for eight days and packed food accordingly. Teppo said this was \u201cthe heaviest he has ever packed for a climbing route\u201d and we both agreed it was a good plan. After having packed everything we measured our backpacks on the scale. We had only 17kg of gear and food each. It was not that bad!<\/p>\n

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