{"id":669,"date":"2012-04-09T19:42:12","date_gmt":"2012-04-09T16:42:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/?page_id=669"},"modified":"2012-06-23T18:56:36","modified_gmt":"2012-06-23T15:56:36","slug":"martinswand-march-2012","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/pictures\/martinswand-march-2012\/","title":{"rendered":"Martinswand – March 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"
In the end of March\u00a0I had another of these short weekend trips with Teppo. This time we went for the climbing\u00a0near Munich.<\/p>\n
We hoped that the conditions would have been good in Wetterstein (plan A) or R\u00e4tikon (plan B) but there was loads of snow making the approaches long and heavy. In stead, we took the plan C and went for the climbing on Martinswand near Innsbruck. Martinswand\u00a0is situated\u00a0in\u00a0an altitude of\u00a01000 meters\u00a0and\u00a0has an approach of 10 minutes.\u00a0The\u00a0altitude\u00a0was 1000 meters less and the approach 1 hour less than the other alternatives which was rather nice.<\/p>\n
Martinswand: Botanik Grand Prix (6+\/A0, 600m)<\/span><\/p>\n For the first day the weather forecast was so-so. The forecast said some rain\u00a0was likely in the afternoon. Judging the conditions we decided on climbing something easier but with good mileage to get tuned in. An alpine start at sunrise was supposed to get us to the top before the rain.<\/p>\n Although the guide book says\u00a0there is some A0\u00a0on this route\u00a0we managed\u00a0everything free. \u00a0I recon the hardest moves would be around UIAA 7-. All in all\u00a0we both\u00a0liked this route\u00a0quite a lot.\u00a0The climbing was sometimes loose and sometimes there were too many bolts but\u00a0in the end we both had happy faces.\u00a0You can’t really complain if you get to\u00a0climb a 600 meter route in less than\u00a0a day after leaving the work office in Finland.<\/p>\n Martinswand: Beam Me Up Scotty (7, 150m)<\/span><\/p>\n The second day we felt slightly knackered.\u00a0Not\u00a0the maximum power type knackered but more like the overall exhaustion type knackered. Thus, we\u00a0browsed through\u00a0the pile of\u00a0guide books and wanted someting shorter with some harder pitches in it.<\/p>\n I really don’t know why but for some reason I\u00a0didn’t get the good feeling about this route. It was a\u00a0nice route but\u00a0still it was missing something. Maybe it was\u00a0missing the occasional runout on loose terrain like the Botanik had…<\/p>\n Martinswand: Maxl’s Gamsrevier (7-, 175m) to Maxl’s Krone (7-, 160m)<\/span><\/p>\n On our third day we went for something bigger again. We had read a lot of good about the Maxl’s link-up. It seemed like the best route on our skill level on this wall. Some locals also said\u00a0the link-up\u00a0would much better quality than the “beginner routes” on the right hand side of the wall.<\/p>\n The second part of the climb was steeper climbing on good holds. Teppo was really psyched to lead it once I had\u00a0led the lower part. The route was stellar! Once we started the walking descent\u00a0we really felt the meters done in our muscles and decided\u00a0invest in some luxury. We\u00a0booked\u00a0a room in\u00a0a nice hostel\u00a0in the center of Innsbruck.<\/p>\n Martinswand: Kaiser Max Sp\u00e4tlese (6+, 200m)<\/span><\/p>\n Sleeping indoors really does miracles. In the morning\u00a0we both\u00a0woke up totally refreshed.\u00a0The only bad thing about the hostel was the the late breakfast buffet which delayed our start. We reached the bottom of the route at 10 AM which was already rather late since we reasoned we should back at the car at around 1 PM not to miss the plane in Munich. It was time to speed up the climbing pace!<\/p>\n It was time to speed up back to the airport.\u00a0\u00a0For the record, Seat\u00a0Leon 1.6 TDI can do 200 km\/h only barely. The\u00a0tyres will start squeking and you’ll have to\u00a0pedal down to 160 km\/h…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" In the end of March\u00a0I had another of these short weekend trips with Teppo. This time we went for the climbing\u00a0near Munich. We hoped that the conditions would have been good in Wetterstein (plan A) or R\u00e4tikon (plan B) but … Continue reading
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\nBotanik Grand Prix was just like it was said in the guide book.\u00a0It was easy and straight forward and the bolts were plenty. At times you could clip three bolts within the same reach. The only thing the guide book didn’t say was that there was an extension of six new pitches\u00a0with over 200 meters new climbing to it.<\/p>\n
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\nCompared to the Botanik Grand Prix the\u00a0rock on Beam Me Up Scotty was more solid. But\u00a0rock was\u00a0also more polished.<\/p>\n
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\nThe locals knew what they were talking about.\u00a0The first part, Maxl’s Gamsrevier, was as good as slab climbing can get.\u00a0Rock was solid and\u00a0on the easy sections\u00a0the protection was runout enough to spice it up.\u00a0 Most of the climbing was sustained at UIAA 6 and the route followed slabs with good holds.<\/p>\n
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\nKaiser Max Sp\u00e4tlese was very similar to the route we had done the previous day. It was mostly on solid slabs with a couple of more broken sections. Although we thought we did pretty fast time on\u00a0this route\u00a0some locals did it even faster. A two men party aged 45 and 65 ran over us at the last belay. We chatted for a while with the other guy\u00a0while he was belaying his second at the anchors. Once the second was up\u00a0I saw the fastest transover I’ve ever seen. The second guy didn’t even stop at the belay before he started leading! We said goodbyes and started rapping down. Inspired by their fast action we had done seven raps and walked back to the car only 35 minutes later!<\/p>\n