{"id":379,"date":"2011-03-04T22:45:34","date_gmt":"2011-03-04T20:45:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/?page_id=379"},"modified":"2012-06-23T18:49:22","modified_gmt":"2012-06-23T15:49:22","slug":"guillaumet-brenner-ridge","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.patagonia.fi\/blog\/pictures\/guillaumet-brenner-ridge\/","title":{"rendered":"Patagonia – February 2011"},"content":{"rendered":"
Here are some pictures from our trip to Patagonia in February 2011. We summitted two peaks this trip – the Aguja Guillaumet and the Torre de la Media Luna. We climbed\u00a0the Guillaumet\u00a0via the Brenner ridge and the Media Luna via Ruby y Azul route.<\/p>\n
This trip was Olli’s first time and my second time in Patagonia. I was\u00a0in El Chalten\u00a0for the first time with Lauri in February 2007. That trip we climbed the Couloir Amy on Guillaumet. We also tried the Franco-Argentine\u00a0route on Fitz Roy too many times. On our best\u00a0try in 2007\u00a0we got as far as 1o pitches up the route proper. We were three times in the Italian Breche and we hiked up to Paso Superior\u00a0four times. We tried the Franco\u00a0twice in this 2011 trip, too,\u00a0and twice we turned back before reaching the Breche. We thought about trying it for the third time, too,\u00a0but the route seems to get very crowded with good weather.\u00a0As soon as we\u00a0learned there were\u00a0going to be at least 10 people on the route at the same time\u00a0we opted for other objectives. We’ve never been\u00a0too big fans of queuing and we reasoned it would be much more fun actually summiting something.<\/p>\n
In February 2011 there were two long\u00a0spells of good weather in El Chalten. We missed the first five day weather window because\u00a0I was sick but in the second window we climbed the Aguja Guillaumet on February 19th and the Media Luna on February 21st. Both these routes are short routes by Patagonian standards.\u00a0In Patagonia a route with 350m of vertical\u00a0gain and\u00a0500m of climbing length is a short route. On the way up to\u00a0Media Luna I\u00a0even joked about going sport climbing.<\/p>\n
Aguja Guillaumet: Brenner Ridge (6b, 350m) – February 19th, 2011<\/span><\/p>\n The Guillaumet can be approached either via Paso Superior in 7 hrs or via Piedras Frailes\u00a0in 3 hrs. The Brenner ridge is a first class route if you like rock climbing on stellar granite.<\/p>\n On the\u00a0summit of Guillaumet we decided to try the Media Luna next. It was not in the original plan but it proved to be a very good decision. Our original plan was to continue to the Aguja Mermoz via the traverse but the problem was that if we did that we’d run out of time. By\u00a0going ahead we would\u00a0have bivied and it would have cost\u00a0us our chance of visiting the Torre Valley.\u00a0We had a little chat at the summit and we agreed it would the time to widen the perspective. Although I had\u00a0hiked six times up to Paso Superior and I had spent more than 30 days in El Chalten I had\u00a0never\u00a0climbed anything in the\u00a0Torre Valley.<\/p>\n In the summit of Guillaumet we also knew we had to hike back to El Chalten in between these two routes. We knew it was going to be 40 km of walking and 1500 vertical meters both down and up before we could climb again. We had ran out of food in Paso Superior so\u00a0we really had no choice of doing any short cuts.\u00a0But we didn’t mind this. We knew\u00a0that Patagonia is lot of approaching and we felt\u00a0strong enough to cope with it.<\/p>\n Torre de la Media Luna: Ruby y Azul (6c, 350m) – February 21st, 2011<\/span><\/p>\n The Media Luna is all about splitter cracks! The Ruby y Azul route is roughly the same length but a lot more sustained compared to the Brenner ridge on Guillaumet. Also, it might be a good idea to carry a Camalot #4 for the crux pitch on the Ruby y Azul. We had only one #3 and it was way\u00a0too small for aiding the splitter dihedral. Olli said that freeing the 6c fist crack felt like freeing\u00a0any 7b in Bohusl\u00e4n. But it was not about the grades – we very just very very tired of all the walking.<\/p>\n This\u00a0was the first time hiking\u00a0to the Niponino for both of us. It takes about\u00a07-8 hours from El Chalten to the the Niponino and 1-2 hours more to the bottom of the route if you do it the first time\u00a0at a\u00a0leisury pace. We’ve heard it can be done few hours faster if you’ve done it before. Sebastian – the owner of the Aylen\u00a0Aike hostel\u00a0– told us a legend\u00a0of a strong Viking\u00a0climber who had\u00a0done\u00a0the 25 km hike in 6 hours both ways. The first 25 km\u00a0he ran\u00a0uphill with light gear and the second 25 km he\u00a0ran downhill carrying two back packs…<\/p>\n El Chalten: February 2nd to February 18th, 2011<\/span><\/p>\n Speaking about people the final set of pictures will containg some pics with more people and less summits. This all was before the second spell of good weather. After summiting Media Luna we didn’t have much time left. We arrived in El Chalten\u00a0at 4 PM on\u00a022nd and our plane was about to leave El Calafate at noon 23rd. We had time for packing our gear,\u00a0drinking\u00a0some beers in the evening and\u00a0taking the minibus to the airport in the morning\u00a0but that’s about it.<\/p>\n
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